- Os vários padrões de vídeo componente analógico RGB - do Inglês: Red, Green, Blue; ou Vermelho, Verde, Azul - (ex: RGBS, RGBHV, RG&SB) não utilizam compressão.
- RGB naar Component Video(YUV) converter Zet het RGB signaal om naar een component video signaal. Ideaal voor het aansluiten van videobronnen, met een scart.
- Definitions: old videogame = anything 8-bit (Famicom, PC Engine), 16-bit (SNES, Mega Drive), 32-bit (PSOne, Saturn) up to the PS2 or GameCube. flatpanel TV = anything.
- As manchas de TVs de plasma podem ser totalmente removidas? A tela de uma TV de plasma é composta de vários pequenos pixels, cada um contendo uma luz vermelha.
HDMI and Optical Cables for TV's, HDMI Switches, Speaker and HDMI Wall Plates, DVI/HDMI Adapter, Banana Plugs. Apple TV V1 compatible - converts the component video output for use with existing TVs via the RGB SCART input.
Upscalers, CRTs, PVMs & RGB: Retro gaming done right! Gaming Discussion.
Upscalers, CRTs, PVMs & RGB: Retro gaming done right! This thread is all about getting the best possible picture and performance out of your old SD video game consoles. If you're a retro game enthusiast, you might have noticed that your old games look like crap and don't play very well on your HDTV. We're here to help you, either by acquiring some equipment to make your consoles and existing HDTV work better together, or by suggesting displays that are specifically tailored for the retro game experience.
There are of course other avenues to play old games today: backward compatibility between some systems, download services, emulators, and clone consoles. Each of these methods come with unique drawbacks, some of which may matter to you and some of which may not. While the pros and cons of these options are sometimes discussed here, there's not enough room in this OP to delve into all of that, so if you're the type of person who prefers to use original hardware for the genuine experience when possible and want to know how you might be able to do it better, then read on. Direct Captures: Because seeing is believing. Here are some comparison videos to start with.
If you've only used these consoles with composite video cables, then check out the difference that other cables offer. Click a thumbnail to download the corresponding video. MP3 audio, Yadif filter for 4. RGB and You: The hierarchy of video signals and cables. Before worrying about your TV and any extra devices, you want to make sure you're feeding them the best possible signal in the first place. In most cases, that will be some form of RGB.
Let's cover all the bases. Radio frequency modulation (RF), composite video, and S- video are the lowest rungs. S- video isn't terrible, but you can still do better, often without having to mod your system! SCART carries, among other things, an RGBs video signal: red, green, blue, and sync, each separated into individual pins. This offers better clarity than the above formats and is also the signal that is natively produced by the graphics hardware in most retro consoles, even in consoles that don't output RGB through their A/V ports.
RGB is the best video format that you can expect to get out of any pre- Dreamcast console, and much of the discussion in this thread encompasses how to do exactly that. In a lot of cases, you don't even have to mod the system! You just have to find the right cable. Component video & D- terminal carry a YPb. Pr signal, which is different than RGB. AFAIK, RGB is superior on full- range displays, while YPb. Pr is better for limited- range displays, so your specific TV's capabilities should influence your choice between the two when they're both available.
SCART maxes out at 2. VGA carries an RGBHV signal: red, green, blue, horizontal sync, and vertical sync. It uses the same color space as SCART but supports higher resolutions as well. The Dreamcast is the only console you're likely to use with VGA, and it's the best option for that console.
No console has DVI output, but it can be transcoded to or from VGA (DVI- A) or HDMI (DVI- D) with no signal loss, which is relevant for certain processing or capture equipment. HDMI is the standard for modern consoles and is your likely destination format if you're using an HDTV/upscaler combo. Gaming: How retro consoles and televisions handle video content. Standard definition NTSC video is 7. When viewing 4. 80i content on an interlaced display, the picture is displayed and updated somewhat like this. The picture is divided into two fields: one for the odd numbered lines and one for the even numbered lines. The TV refreshes the odd field at one moment, then the even field 1/6.
This is how SD video content and displays generally operate. Classic video game consoles work slightly differently. Generally, their graphics hardware wasn't robust enough to utilize a full 4. This only uses one field, but it's still updated at the same 6. SD video. The other field is left blank, creating what are often referred to as scanlines.
FYI, scanlines aren't necessarily as rigid and dark as this GIF suggests. Intensity and color bleed can vary a lot between different CRTs!)That's fine on old TVs that are interlaced by nature, but this stuff can lead to problems when we're using progressive scan equipment, which basically includes every consumer flatpanel TV and monitor. Progressive TVs process an entire frame at once instead of alternating fields. This means that 4. TV like this. Compare this GIF with the first GIF.
Instead of updating 1 field 6. Modern TVs tend to have a built- in deinterlacing process to account for this by splitting the fields apart and doubling their resolution before they're even displayed, producing something that ideally looks a little more like this. Unfortunately, this has some drawbacks. The picture quality isn't always great due to the guesswork involved in resolving the two fields, and it takes time for a TV to apply all of that processing to the image before it gets displayed. This can result in a very significant amount of input lag. And perhaps contrary to popular belief, it is this deinterlacing process, and not upscaling per se, that often accounts for a lot of extra input lag when playing retro video game consoles.
Upscaling lag is also a concern of course, and that also can vary significantly between TV sets, but you can often eliminate a significant chunk of lag by making sure that you feed the TV a progressive signal in the first place instead of forcing it to handle an interlaced one. If you're in the market for a new HDTV and want to make sure that it has low input lag in general, check out sites like displaylag. The other major drawback is that a lot of modern TVs have no way to distinguish between 2. They assume that 2.
Some TVs can correctly identify 2. Finally, most HDTVs are just bad at upscaling a 2. Between a lot of questionable post- processing that you may or may not be able to turn off and internal scalers that just aren't built with an eye for pixel art, you're usually going to get something that looks bad or worse if you plug an SD video game console straight into an HDTV. Choosing a Display: A dedicated SD CRT, or a supplementary solution for your high- end HDTV? Your choice of display has the most ramifications on what, if any, extra hardware you'd have to throw into the mix in order to get better performance out of your retro systems in addition to how much you might spend. If you're willing to keep two TVs in your setup, one for retro games and one for HD consoles, then it would be wise to inform yourself of various CRT options, including not only run of the mill consumer TVs, but perhaps VGA computer monitors or even professional broadcast monitors.
If the prospect of hoarding a bulky tube TV sounds inconvenient or unsavory to you, then finding a good converter to pair with your flatscreen TV is an advisable alternative. First, let's discuss the CRT options in brief. Consumer CRT televisions: Not always the best option for a CRT, especially if you live in North America, but it's the one that requires the least money and effort. Trinitrons are generally well- regarded.
Be wary of HD CRTs, which sometimes have bad post- processing that you can't disable. If you still have an old tube set laying around then it might be worth considering putting it to use. At the very least, they don't have some of the disadvatages that flatscreen displays do (input lag, poor upscaling). Overscan can be a pain, though, and video connector options are likely to be limited. If you're in a PAL territory, you should look for a TV with SCART input. If you're in North America, consider picking up an SD set with component inputs and pairing it with a SCART- to- YUV transcoder.
CRT computer monitors: These tend to only have VGA input, so you'd probably still have to invest in additional hardware to use them with anything but a Dreamcast. However, if you still have one laying around the house or know someone who'd be happy to get rid of theirs, and if you don't mind incorporating it into your console gaming setup, then it could be very much worthwhile to do exactly that. Picture quality for monitors often tends to be a significant step up from ordinary TVs, and positioning/convergence/scaling options are more robust.
Be aware, however, that scanlines will be virtually non- existent on a 3. CRTs, if that's something you care about. Professional CRT monitors: Sony's PVM/BVM product line is among the best for 1.
Size and supported inputs vary between models, and retro gamers would want to use an RGB- capable model via SCART- to- BNC cables. The NEC XM series is also a highly regarded option that can support both 1. Finding a good deal on these types of monitors on the second- hand market can be tricky depending on where you live, as they were never marketed to the general public, but I've seen people in this very thread pick up quite a few in the vicinity of $1. Converters and Upscalers: How to properly bridge the gap between your retro console and your HDTVSo you have a phenomenal, massive flat panel HDTV in your home theater setup that's awesome for Blu- rays and your HD game consoles, but it makes your retro systems look like ass.
Fret not, as there are options to mitigate this problem as well. First, you should pick up the best kind of video cables that you can get for your systems, which is SCART for most of them, as discussed above. For the consoles that don't output RGB natively, consider modding them so that you can use SCART cables, or get someone to do it for you.
Some Gaffers are capable of performing this for you. Ask around!) Details on SCART compatibility for various systems can be found at the bottom of this post.
Even if you have the best cables, though, you can't plug them straight into an HDTV and expect amazing results. For one, SCART sockets on TVs are rare outside of PAL regions, and even if your HDTV has one it probably handles 2. So, let's go over a few types of devices that you can get to remedy this.